When I went to London recently for a Friday business meeting, Melinda and I decided to extend the stay and make a weekend of it.
Our plans included a visit to the Cabinet War Rooms and walking a labyrinth.
The Cabinet War Rooms is an underground complex of reinforced basements and offices that acted as the nerve centre of the British Government during WW2. This remarkably small space is a couple of flights of stairs below what in 1939 was the Office of Works and the Board of Trade – just off Whitehall. It is frugal, cheaply decorated, and purely functional. No expense was wasted on decoration or aesthetics. Everything and everyone that came into this space shared a single, specific purpose.
When Churchill first saw it, he recognised that purpose, saying: “This is the room from which I will lead the war.” And he did. Around him, were assembled typists, maps (bought off the shelf from general stationers, not created by military cartographers), telephones, offices and bedrooms for his chief advisers. A head office, in other words, from where the activities and fates of millions upon millions of people could be choreographed.

Map Room Officers at work in the Cabinet War Rooms. The Royal Air Force officer sitting at the end of the table has been identified as Wing Commander John Heagerty. Copyright: Imperial War Museum
It is an extraordinary and raw example of the power of organisation. I’d recommend a visit to anyone who wants to see at first hand the nuts and bolts of how any group of people can be led in a dance that has no set moves and no predictable end.
That afternoon, Melinda and I took a bus up to Hamspstead Heath to walk a labyrinth. Now, a labyrinth should not be confused with a maze. While a maze is designed to test your abilities to choose the correct path from among many options, a labyrinth has just one route in and out from its centre.
The labyrinth we were to walk is an exact copy of the famous one at Chartres Cathedral. This particular design was created during the time of the crusades, when it was difficult for Christian pilgrims to go to Jerusalem. Instead, walking the labyrinth was regarded as being akin to making the pilgrimage. The design, however, predates Christianity and is thought to have been used as an aid to meditation and prayer for thousands of years.
Our Hampstead labyrinth – although of the same dimensions and design as Chartres – was slightly less ancient and certainly less durable. It was printed onto canvas and spread across the floor of the Rosslyn Hill Unitarian Chapel.
We were under the guidance of Danielle Wilson, who explains her personal ‘interfaith’ credo on her website: “I see interfaith as rising above all faiths and subscribing to none, all the while honouring the beauty and wisdom deriving from other faiths.”
Melinda had walked a labyrinth before. For me, it was a first experience and I wasn’t sure what to expect. All I knew was that I wanted to keep my mind and my soul as open as possible to the potential of this tool that had been used by spritual people for millennia.
You enter the labyrinth at a time you choose. You walk at a pace that is comfortable for you. And, while you walk, you let your mind focus on anything or nothing. The very act of following a path that winds and wanders, meandering towards the central core liberates your mind from having to think about the mundanity of choosing where to walk.
So how was it for me? I wasn’t prepared for the sheer physical power of the experience. I could feel my heart pounding and I became profoundly aware of each breath as I walked, my eyes focused on the path.
I was also very aware of other people who were following the same path, but in their own way and with their own thoughts. The path became our choreographer as it led us on a spiritual dance of our own making. Some people stayed in the centre to sit and meditate, but I didn’t. There were too many people there and too little space to breathe freely. So I carried on along the path. And all the time I was aware not only that I was part of the informal dance that was going on around me, but also that I was separate and individual.
On Monday morning it was time to return home. Before we left, Melinda wanted to buy a particular weight and texture of paper that she had spotted in an art supplies shop in SoHo. While she did that, I went to see the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. This is one of those cheesy tourist attractions that stinks of pageantry, history and tradition. It’s sneered at by many, adored by many more.
I’d never seen it, so I took my camera and joined the throngs around the railings of the palace. The changing of the guard is, quite simply, the point at which one set of sentries is replaced by another. In some ways, it is purely an administrative procedure – a bit of military housekeeping. But, in other ways, the choreography of the event is is much more powerful.

Changing the Guard
These guards are dressed in uniforms that go back a couple of centuries. Their high bearkskin hats, their greatcoats, their drill are all designed to make each soldier look much like the other. The message is simple: the faces and the bodies of the soldiers may change, but the guard is constant.
Arms are shouldered and presented. Ranks are formed and straightened. Officers and colour bearers march from side to side of the palace in a measured pace. The bands play.
In the meantime, thousands of cameras take pictures that will be smiled at across the world. Yet, these young men and women are not here just for show. These are faces you will see in desert camouflage, on your TV, in the dust of Afghanistan. These are real soldiers who, away from the tourist cameras, take part in much more deadly manoeuvres.
All of which brought me full circle back to the Cabinet War Rooms and the thought that all our lives are choregraphed in some way. But, ultimately, it is we who choose whether or not – and how – we take part in the dance.
Filed under: Travel | Tagged: Buckingham Palace, Cabinet War Rooms, Chartres, choreography, Churchill, Danielle Wilson, Labyrinth, London | Leave a Comment »









